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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:56 pm 
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
I'm looking to put a 4" lift on my 99 Sahara, what are some of the issues that need to be considered along with this endeavor? I've got a slight tire-rub issue that I want to fix while the lift is happening too. My personal experience with modding is adding driving lamps and installing a new soft top, so any advice or assistance is appreciated!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:57 pm 
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
P.S. - Anyone know of a good paint shop? I'm in the market for a paint job matched to a specific color palette.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 12:21 am 
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Location: Hanford, Ca
What kind of lift are you looking at doing?
Long arm or short arm?
Short are is much easier if you are going to do the work yourself.
I would recommend the Rubicon Express 4.5 Super Flex kit. When you get the jeep loaded down for the trail, it will settle to 4" of lift for the trail.

This lift kit is easy to install with basic tools in most garages.
I installed the 3.5 inch version, and did the first one in 4 hours with two guys working on the jeep. We did have air tools, and the jeep on a lift.
The second install, took about 8 hours, and I did it with the wife.
I had to go behind her to torque everything to the right setting.
Did not have to do this on the first install, as he knew what torque values where, and could get them there.

With the 4.5 kit, you are going to need to do a SYE or slip yoke eliminator kit and get a new rear drive shaft also. This will need to be done, to eliminate any vibes you have at the rear end after the lift is installed..

For the tire rub, that could be the rims you currently have, do not have the proper backspacing, or you just need a set of spacers to help push the rims and tires out a little. A lot of people run spacers, and have no issues. About $200 for a full set.

Hope this helps.

Todd

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 3:18 am 
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Issue with tire rub probably has to do with putting 31's on stock wheels. Prior owner did that and I still need a new gear for the speedo to register correctly. I intend to buy new wheels with the lift, so hopefully I can solve that issue then. Want to put it on 33's, but what is the difference between the short and long arm lifts? This will be my day-runner and wanted to be up a little higher for the off-road days.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 6:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 3:10 pm
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Location: Henderson...
SA= short arm
LA = long arm
SA or LA lift would fit 33" recommend you stick with 3.5" springs

the SA will do just fine.. cost less

the LA is a much better ride off road and on road cost is much more.



:wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 9:36 am 
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The biggest difference between SA and LA is that for LA you will have to cut off the control arm mounting brackets off the frame. You will not be able to go back to a stock setup. Most lift kits come with a transfer case drop. That will help eliminate driveline vibes, but you will lose 1" ground clearence. Using a SYE and new DS, you won't need to lower the t-case.

I run a Teraflex 4" SA lift with adjustable control arms for the last 4 years. I have been happy with this setup.

My best advise would be to come out on a couple of runs and see & talk to others about what they are running. You can also go to a VV4W meeting and talk with some people there. There will be a couple of guys from Ted Weins Custom 4x4 at the meetings. Clint from Maximum Offroad may also be there.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 8:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 7:25 pm
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Location: The Ghetto
Pro Comp Has a very affordable 4" lift that works real well. I also suggest putting front and rear adjustable trac bars on. The main thing to remember is that when you lift a TJ you must change out your wheels to avoid rubbing issues. Most kits require at least a 4 1/2" back spacing min.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:48 pm
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Location: Boulder City
I ran a 4.5" Short arm Rubicon Express kit for about 2 years before I went to a long arm kit. It worked well and had good articulation. I still have the front and rear springs and the front and rear adjustable control arms. Would sell all the parts I have for $400 and they will fit a TJ. 702-281-8137

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2006 3:10 pm
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Location: Henderson...
blanket statement such as you mentioned is not fact.

XJ Crusier wrote:
The main thing to remember is that when you lift a TJ you must change out your wheels to avoid rubbing issues.


I disagree....

example
T J Rubicon 5" backspace you can run 305x 70x 16 MTR`s ect
no rubbing all you need to do is adjust the steering stop.

other Jeep rims you can choose a tire that is 9" or 10" wide
by running a narrow`r tire they may not have rubbing..

steering stops can always be adjusted
Wheel Spacers can move the tires out
( make sure they are top quality spacers)



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Last edited by mac on Thu Jan 03, 2008 7:33 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 1:08 am 
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
Lee wrote:
I ran a 4.5" Short arm Rubicon Express kit for about 2 years before I went to a long arm kit. It worked well and had good articulation. I still have the front and rear springs and the front and rear adjustable control arms. Would sell all the parts I have for $400 and they will fit a TJ. 702-281-8137


If I can get the parts you've got on hand, what parts would I need to get to complete the kit? What are some good catalogs for pricing out those remaining parts? Is your price negotiable? I priced a new "Traction something" LA kit with SYE and CV driveshaft at just under $4K including installation. If that's the price I've got to work with, then I must wait a little longer for the lift....


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