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D30 Pinon Bearing Seal http://nevadabackroaders.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1883	Page 1 of 2

Author:	Unclebuck&Wendy [ Tue Sep 09, 2008 8:33 am ]
Post subject:	D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Has anyone replaced JUST THE PINON BEARING SEALL on a D30? When I get this %()^% off, am I likely to find that I need to replace the Pinon Bearing as well, at 177K? I am Sick and Tired of these *******'ing oil stains on my ********''ing driveway! (apologies to Samuel L Jackson).

Author:	Trukdj [ Tue Sep 09, 2008 5:28 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Lucky for Buck he doesn't own a Harley

Author:	GaryB [ Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:30 am ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
If you have 177K on the clock, I'd say bite the bullet and get a bearing change as well. You could try changing it out with just a new seal and see how it does. But if you do, and it leaks relatively soon after, it's a good indication that you have other issues. Bearing seals do go bad, but they are also a tell-tell sign of other problems. Like a Dana 44 rear housing seal leaking. It usually means your axle is getting ready to pass you on the shoulder in rush hour traffic at 70 MPH. And it's taking your tire and quarter panel with it.

Author:	allan man [ Wed Sep 10, 2008 2:02 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Its best that you change them both at the same time.....unless you have done this before and have the correct tools...it involves alot more like specific preloads on your pinion,over torqueing can ruin your crush sleeves etc etc. then it can get expensive. If you have a shop do it for you and dont change them both at the same time MOST will not warranty for leaks.

Author:	andy02 [ Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:12 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
GaryB wrote: If you have 177K on the clock, I'd say bite the bullet and get a bearing change as well. You could try changing it out with just a new seal and see how it does. But if you do, and it leaks relatively soon after, it's a good indication that you have other issues. Bearing seals do go bad, but they are also a tell-tell sign of other problems. Like a Dana 44 rear housing seal leaking. It usually means your axle is getting ready to pass you on the shoulder in rush hour traffic at 70 MPH. And it's taking your tire and quarter panel with it. I can attest to Gary's call. My D44 pinion seal leaking was a sign that my bearings were shot due to a couple of washers from my rear diff floating around in the fluid. They wound up tearing up every bearing and seal in my rear end with the exception of the bearings at the end of the tubes. Now where did I leave that loc-tite?

Author:	Justin [ Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:14 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
88k mi and I am having the Pinion leak on my D35 as well as the output seal on the xfer case. Just wondering what these will entail to repair or how much it will cost to do at a shop? Makes sense to do both while the driveshaft is out. My Harley doesn't leak but the 20k mi service at Harley this weekend Put a nice dent in the paycheck. Hope the Jeep holds together a while longer.

Author:	Trukdj [ Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:57 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Justin if the tailshaft is leaking the bushing inside of it might be worn out, not just the seal. When you change the front seal in the rearend you need to check the backlash. If you don't know how to do this it is best to have a shop do it that knows how too . Adams Driveline in Henderson does good work and stands behind their work. Stop taking your Harley to HD there are many good shops out there that will do the work for about half the price. The best I know of is Mel's in Boulder City. Mel knows his stuff and is cheaper than HD.

Author:	JJ [ Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:19 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
my front axle was leaking fairly good for awhile...didn't cost much at all to fix at Maximum. this was about two year ago though, when I got the lift on my Jeep done. I don't remember the exact tab, but the seal itself wasn't so bad, but obviously, I had it done with some other work.

Author:	timandsuzie [ Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:59 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Have to agree with going to Adams for axle work, reasonable prices and they back their work.

Author:	Justin [ Thu Oct 16, 2008 2:24 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm Ok, now i know what fluids to add. I forgot Would the tailshaft bushing cause vibration or pinion bearing? the drive shaft feels really solid so not u joints. Also getting a shudder with the clutch? Green Jeep is falling apart

Author:	Justin [ Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:25 am ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Ok, got an appointment at adams 0800 monday morning for troubleshoot and repairs. When I can afford parts for the clutch may need a work party Since we've done an auto we can learn the manual

Author:	Bill [ Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:57 am ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Manual trans are not that difficult to do just make sure you turn the flywheel and I would also change the pilot bushing while you have it apartWhen I did mine I replaced everything that was inside the bell housing .

Author:	Trukdj [ Fri Oct 17, 2008 4:49 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Justin when you do the clutch do have the flywheel surfaced. Also don't buy a cheap clutch from e-bay or anywhere else, go with a good clutch. I used a clutch from e-bay and it was junk but it was cheap. 3 months later I had to replace it. Went with a Luk clutch and haven't had a problem in 4 years. Clutch kit should come with new throw out bearing and pilot bushing.

Author:	GaryB [ Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:16 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
Third getting the flywheel resurfaced. Also you'll need a clutch alignment tool. It's cheap and makes it easier to get everything in order, and usually comes with the better kits. If you have a shudder when releasing the clutch (to move the Jeep) it might have gotten glazed, which truly can only be fixed by resurfacing the flywheel and a new clutch disc. It happens when you get the clutch hot from slipping it too much either by riding the pedal (like crawling rocks or traffic) or it being waaay out of adjustment. You'll have to take the flywheel to a machine shop to get it resurfaced. Not many places can do it and I'd be leery of trusting some counter jockey with it. They're not cheap to replace. Most places should get it done same day if they got it early enough.

Author:	JJ [ Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:51 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: D30 Pinon Bearing Seal
the factory service manual says not to re-surface the flywheel on TJs: FLYWHEEL DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the flywheel bolts. Common causes of runout are: ² heat warpage ² improper machining ² incorrect bolt tightening ² improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder ² foreign material on crankshaft flange Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour and machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180 grit emery or with surface grinding equipment. Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation; it can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.

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