Nevada Backroaders

Nevada 4-Wheel Drive Club
It is currently Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:47 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 11:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Since I haven't seen anyone's "Build pages" I thought I'd start the trend with what I've done along with some details. This is a rewrite of a L O N G Build page from another site that I am on mostly and as of doing so last year I've acquired well over 11,490 views, dozens of comments. Some with a lot of praise and some who laughed at me But thats OK, I've seen what "Diamonds" they drive and they shouldn't be laughing at anyone.. LOL


So to start:


When I first made my purchase, she was a dirty 1993 Ford Ranger XLT with a standard cab, 4.0L Manual trans and 2WD. Virgin shy of the bunk audio gear the previous owner stuffed in it. No armrest console/center seat back, no OEM jack... SOLD as is

Image


The short lived transformation of a street truck turned to a much better and more functional vehicle on several levels. As someone into camping a lot, new places to visit, fishing and firearms, a self-proclaimed survivalist on an urban or even open land aspect; it only made sense that a multi-purpose vehicle with overlanding/expeditionary capabilities and good sustainable attributes should take root..

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image


ABOUT THE PRODUCTS
The products I use are generally multi-purposeful, of good to great quality, most of which are supplied or installed by one of two of my trucks current sponsors.., Myself and 12° North, Industries has been generously helpful.., Located in Las Vegas, NV with a small manufacturing facility in Ripon, Wisconsin. I am not sponsored by any of the brands you see here. I only use what fits the needs and the means of the situations I create with the rig and those associated with it..

NOTE:: “Generally it’s against most forum policies to engage in outright site commerce without permissions from the Administration” so that we are CLEAR; it is not my goal to sell anything here by this Thread. My goal here is to showcase what has been done to a 24 yr old truck which lost its manufacturing platform leadership in 2011. It is also my intention to spark up ideas and or conversations of the How, what and why the truck is set up the way it is.

The best part is it’s not a Brand NEW $45,000 something dollar vehicle being shod with another $20k in shiny parts to become the latest “Billboard-Mall-Crawler”. I’m not a Youtube showcase. Just a man doing my thing cause I can. There is a personal master goal at work here, a theme and well defined purpose, with the ingenuity & creativity behind it all.

Like what you see so far? Come join myself and others as we evolve on our journeys.

> Curious about the process and adventures I take this on?
> Have any questions in regards to the products I use?
> Subscribe to my thread(s), say hello and let's meet on the trails!



MODEL:
93’ Ford Ranger XLT


DRIVETRAIN:
4.0 Liter V6 OHV
5 Speed Manual
Rear Diff: 3.73, Open



FRONT SUSPENSION:
Daystar 2" Leveling kit
Stock 2WD Coils
Fox 2.5 Smooth Body Shocks/External reservoir-CD Adjuster (Not Installed yet)



REAR SUSPENSION:
Universal Group HD Leaf Pack (1750lb – 1.7” of lift)
Deaver 10" U-bolts
Fox 2.0 Smooth Body Shocks/External reservoir (Not Installed yet)



WHEELS / TIRES:
17x8.0 02'-05' Ford Explorer AWD Takeoffs
LTS 265/70/17 Hancook Dynapro MT (32" 10 ply tires)
Bronson 1.25" spacers (front/rear)
Hawk Brake Pads - Frt. LTS HB279Y.594



ARMOR/PROTECTIVE GEAR:
26oz of Ride-On Auto tire sealant/Balancing fluid ea. Tire


VEHICLE:
12° North, Ind. Custom Big 4 Wiring Upgrade [Battery(s), Alt, Starter, & Grounds]
12° North, Ind. Custom Jumper Cables
Performance Accessories 2" Body Lift Kit
BoltLock(s) (keeping gear secure)
Hi Lift curved bumper attachment
ARB Breather kit (for rear diff and Trans, plumbed for front diff)
AVS Ventshades (Front Windows)
Spare fluids: 1gal Antifreeze, 1gal Mobil1 oil/filter, 1 lrg bottle brake fluid, 2qts ATF Mercon IV
Spare Parts: Serpentine belt, 1 upper/lower rad hose, 1 upper/lower ball joint, misc fuses, screws & bolts, cable ties, scrap wire, etc…



PERFORMANCE:
K&N OEM box style filter [modified]
Flow Master 40 Custom Cat-back W/downturn before axle
NGK Wires
NGK Iridium plugs
Mishimoto 2 row HD Radiator
Volvo 940T E-Fan upgrade w/2 speed fan
[OEM Clutch Fan Delete]


INTERIOR TRUCK:
Coolgear 12v USB Charging Hub – 7 USB Port
Birdawg Industries Rearview Mirror Riser & Toyota Dovetail Mirror Bracket
LED bulb dash lights upgrade
OHC (Overhead Console w/dual lighting mirrors, compass/temp, from Explorer Sport)
First aid kit (Medium kit behind passenger seat)
Charging Station for StreamLight Srion LED



INTERIOR FLIP-PAC/BED: Flip-Pac Specs
Fire extinguisher 4lb
First Responder Field Trauma Kit
Charging Station for StreamLight Stinger LED HL
Charging Station for GoPro Cameras
Custom fold up Desk with power access



RECOVERY:
Hi-Lift Extreme Jack
ARB Snatch-Strap 30' @1
ARB Snatch-Strap 20' @2
Warn Snatch Blocks @2
Rugged Ridge D-Ring Shackles [ @4 ]
ARB Quick deflator Air Gauge
ARB Tire repair Kit
Full Size Spade Shovel
Zippo 4 in 1 Woodsman Axe/saw



OVERLAND GEAR:
Flip-Pac shell with options
Road Shower II (Currently Not Installed)

TOTE: (a) His
Sleeping bag [Can zip to TOTE b bag]
Queen Sized Pillow/Blanket
2 Person Military Ground Tent
7 x 10 Tarp

TOTE: (b) Hers
Sleeping bag [Can zip to TOTE a bag]
Queen Sized Pillow/Blanket
2 Person Military Ground Tent
7 x 10 Tarp

TOTE: (c)
Calif-King Blanket
Reserve stove fuel
Stanley Base-Camp Pots & Pan Kit
Stanley Camp Coffee Pot & Cups
Waterproof Case (Spare AA, AAA Batteries)
Waterproof Case (Reg & Canvas Sewing kit)

TOTE: (d)
Dry Foods; Ready-made meals
Cereals, pretzels, pastas, rice
Dried fruits, soup mixes
Water, tea, instant coffee
Foods (Other)
2 – 72 Hour Bags W/1.6L Camel Bacs
[Contents in a later update]


RESERVE POWER:
National Luna Smart Dual Battery Isolator w/monitoring
1 @ Exide Flat Plate AGM Group 65 [Main Starting]
2 @ Exide Flat Plate AGM Mega-cycle 200 [Reserve capacity]



LIGHTING:
12° North, Ind. Hood light kit
12° North, Ind. Camper Shell light kit
Flip-Pac LED upgrades 5w Red frt/7w white rear
GG Lighting LED 40” SRS [Forward Facing Roof] (Not Installed yet)
GG Lighting LED 2x2 Cubes @ 4 [Pillar/Ditch lighting]
GG Lighting LED 2x2 Flush mount @ 1[Reverse Light]
GG Lighting LED 20” SRS [Forward Facing Bumper Mounted]
StreamLight Stinger LED HL
StreamLight Srion LED



COMMUNICATIONS:
Uniden CMX560 Citizens Band Radio
Midland MXT105 Micromobile 2-way radio



NAVIGATION:
US Topo Maps App [Samsung Galaxy Tab3 7.0]
Commenga Military Compass
Folding Maps/Protractor



RADIO/AUDIO:
Alutek Bluetooth/RCA Module
Samsung Galaxy Tab3 7.0 / 17.1GB music, Pandora, Spotify, etc
Q-Forms kick panels 5.25Midrange / 1” Tweet (Temporarily Removed)
7” Midbass Factory door locations (Temporarily Removed)
One 8” Diamond Audio CM3 Subwoofer (Temporarily Removed)
Audio Control EQL (Temporarily Removed)
ARC Audio XDi850.5 Amp (85w x 4, 400w x 1, 740 watts total) (Temporarily Removed)
AudioQuest Diamond RCA [1 @ 4m pair, 2 @ 1.5m pairs]
AudioQuest Type II - IV Speaker cables



LAPTOP:
HP Pavilion dv6


CAMERAS:
GoPro Hero III (x2)


FUTURE MODS:
- Max Trax Vehicle Extraction device (need 2 pair)
- iCOM ID-5100a
- 12° North, Industries. Bed Drawer 5.5 ft of the, Bed 10” Height
- 12° North, Industries. Multi-carrier bumper (Receiver hitch style, shackle mts.)
- 12° North, Industries. Front bumper (full grill/light hoop, push pads, shackle mnts, winch mnt)
- 12° North, Industries, Rock-Sliders/Rails
- Warn 9.5xp-s Winch
- Factor 55 Flatlink and Fairlead
- ARB Fridge Freezer 63Qt and Slide out
- ARB Twin Air Compressor
- Spyder Automotive LED tail lights (93-05 version Smoked, red-clear only, hardwired clears as turn signals with amber LED bulbs)
- 5 Lug to 6 Lug Conversion
- Addition of Power Inverter with Solar Controller [Already have panels]
- Reinstall/Finish audio system


Don’t worry, I HAVE a longer list…! ;-)


More to add...

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Last edited by Undrstm8ed on Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 8:32 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Rather than make several posts all over the forum itself, I'll be adding to this thread on things performed on this particular rig..

This part of the project is honestly about 70% complete despite looks and presentation. What is holding up the full completion is the permanent routing of the antenna which is actually a 0DB antenna that will be replaced by a 3DB gain Black Antenna rod from Laird, and the trim plate that will finish off the final look of the display. Outside of that it is completed and functional. The citizens band radio is a separate install and I'll be showing some of that below too..


Image
So shipment comes in early instead of late for once and I couldn't wait to get started. My Midland MTX105 w/weather alerts and my Uniden CB CMX560. Now before I get started I know that this is not a "Classic" Cobra 29 CB radio nor an overly expensive 2 way radio I opted to for. However, there were some key features required for both units and quality is still there. First, this vehicle has a lot of additional wiring upgrades throughout and although I find COMM's to be important, these two items are 85% of the time going to be used in mostly close proximity or shorter ranges than say someone with a hobby of CB radios would find sub-par shy of the install.


Image
Since the CB radio is more or less satisfying a requirement of both here for trail use as well as another group or two. Its primary use will be severely limited to those times. I do not really need a forward nor large display and the conveniences of having a hideaway unit and all of the features and controls in the face works well for my particular application. The hideaway unit will reside next to the future hideaway unit of the iCOM 5100 H.A.M. unit at a later date and is mounted back behind the seat for that reason. On top of that, generally the Samsung tablet used as the Audio/Topography mapping/entertainment/communication focal point also seems to put off a whitish light, it'll blend in perfectly.

I have a special cavity being used to fulfill not only a clean install but a very detailed and some may say elaborate setup. Also I needed a spot that's higher up inside as we all know, or some of us anyway. I am not exactly shy about water crossing that come to the top of my grill, yet this was a concern for my electronics being placed at what I think should be a safe level in the vehicle.

Image
The two hideaway units, my audio amplifier, the my new layered subwoofer enclosure, and a mid-sized FirstAid kit all have a special mounting place behind the seats in this standard cab truck.


Image
The 2 way unit had three requirements, it had to have the right size, compatibility needs, and colored display since it was going to be seen in a forward sense. It was going to have to match the white display for the iCOM 5100 which will be another future interesting installation.

Onto the install of the Midland...

Image
Image
The place for install is in the factory ashtray area simply because I don't smoke nor does anyone in my truck and the ashtray itself seems to collect things that rattle and make noise; a win/win.


Image
Image
Image
Removal of these two 7mm or T15 screws removes the slide plate for the ashtray from the center stack giving the final results above and revealing the wiring sub harness for the cigarette lighter (Constant 12 volt outlet) and the ashtray light itself. This will be removed from the vehicle and saved should (doubtful) I ever need to return it to stock.


Image
Fits just like I had hoped.


Image
A little trigger happy with the camera, as I took the pic before I drilled in the third screw, I swear there are three screws in it to hold it up! lol


Image
Now since I have a secondary fuse panel that resides in the drivers side rear speaker location that has a direct source of hot and ground from the battery power. We are going to not only use a 3 amp blade fuse in the fuse holder in place of the inline glass fuse but we are going to have to extend the wires anyway. I've cut right at the fuse holder to get as much of the original wiring as possible.


Image
Image
Image
As with all my electronic installs, proper protection of the wires and the routing of those wires is key to a clean install along with soldering of all connections. In reality, doesn't matter if you solder, crimp, or twist and tape. As long as you do those process correctly you should have a relatively trouble free install and whichever method you prefer is your choice. I've done them all and they're all effective.


Image
And the final product just before powering it up and before the trim plate looks good. Its got a great upwards angle to me as the driver and once the cover plate is on will look even better.


Image
A decent night shot. Once I get a trim panel on it and the iCOM unit mounted I will have to definitely get a full shot of it all lit up.

Next or soon I will show the citizens band radio install along with the rear firewall setup.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2017 4:47 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Image
Image

I’ve been trying to tie up some loose ends that I’ve just dealt with over the months and I had a few dollars burning a hole in my pocket and I really wanted to do something about the shovel I keep on hand in the Flip-Pac of the truck. Eventually it will migrate to the other side of the vehicle because of a major window modification I plan on doing to the passenger side of the Flip-Pac which will take the current sliding window out and with some slight cutting of some of the fiberglass shell. I will be able to massage in another window/aluminum door that will lift up like a lift gate to provide side access into the rear area.


Image

So I stopped and picked up a pair of small “Quickfists” clamps. You can find them at many of the off-road shops but if your choices are limited. You can find a local dealer to you through http://www.endroad.com and see options and dealers near you. I used Quick Fist Part # 0010 for this install.


Image

Also needed was a few extra parts, as usual stainless steel hardware, and nuts, although I got 0.25” washers, those were only zinc plated. The other "L" bracket aluminum hardware is left over parts from some solar panel installation parts I have on hand which come in handy as they are adjustable and multi-configuration capable.


Image
Image
Image

Using the added hardware, I assembled them as so through my existing bracket work. When I switch to the other side I will check to see if I can mount them 180* and facing down to move the center of weight more closer to the bed of the truck. For now, they face upwards.


Image
Image

This should prevent the bolts from puling through the rubber Quick Fists themselves and hold things securely; certainly more so than a couple weak and now stretching out mini bungee cords.


Image
Image

And at the end, the results I got were satisfying and stronger as every once in a while you could hear that shovel smacking the top rail and it’s a bit nerve racking as you’re focused on everything on a trail to make sure nothing is going wrong or out of place.

As always, thanks for following along or looking...

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 10:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Since I am getting ready to order a new set of DynaPro MT's I thought I'd share another product I made mention of and use in the last set of Dynapro's.

Back when I picked up the first set I ordered from 12° North Ind. a 6-pack (+1) of Ride ON 16oz Auto tire sealant/Balancing fluid for the tires. Ideally the 58lb, 10 ply, tires are each 26 oz heavier with an auto tire sealant fluid to give 3rd sentry to a tire failure, even if on a multiple puncture failure. The extra thick blocked tread, 10 ply LT tires, and now tire sealant. Drives no different other than more peace of mind. I would like to add that ripping open a side wall is a whole other mess to contend with but for the more general and specifically minor concerns or issues. I'm a bit more confident on the trails and less worried about tire issues.

Again, my purpose is to be as self sufficient as possible and if I go to help someone else, whether on the trail or on the open tarmac, I don't want to have to need help myself.


The product info

Ride-On Auto Tire Sealant (from the manufactures site itself)
Image

LIGHT TRUCK/SUV Formula

Ride-On® Auto Formula tire sealant is an innovative orange gel that has been specially formulated to seal punctures, prevent leaks, balance tires, and extend tire life in all automobile, light truck, SUV, RV, van, and trailer tires. Ride On is designed to seal most slow leaks and punctures (efficiency of 85-95%) in the crown area of a tire caused by nails, screws, thorns, road debris, and virtually any perforating object up to 1/4" in diameter. Ride On also helps your tires maintain proper inflation and run cooler, which can increase their life by up to 25% or more (of course, this is critically dependent on how and where you drive your vehicle). A vehicle equipped with Ride On will benefit from better handling, better fuel economy, longer lasting tires, and most importantly, a safer ride. This version of Ride-On has been specifically formulated for passenger cars and light trucks – install Ride-On now in your car, SUV, minivan, or pickup truck to obtain these benefits for all your vehicles! It might be colored orange, but you'll think it's worth its weight in gold.

Ride-On is used by the military, Postal Service, police and fire departments nationwide. Other Ride-On formulas are also available for motorcycles and bicycles, as well as for industrial vehicles, commercial trucks, and other commercial uses.

Ride-On Tire Sealant for Cars, SUVs, Light Trucks (LTs), Trailers, and RVs
The Ride-On Tire Protection System (TPS) Auto formula tire sealant is designed for use in cars, light trucks, SUVs, RVs, and trailers operating at speeds in excess of 30 miles per hour (50 km/h). The Auto formula will seal punctures in tubeless tires from perforating objects up to 1/4" in diameter (1/8" in tube tires) that enter the tread area of the tire. Ride-On TPS Auto formula helps balance your tires to give you a smoother ride. It is compatible with most tire inflation systems (TPMS) and will not plug your valve stems. NO OTHER SEALANT CAN MAKE THAT CLAIM!

The Ride-On TPS Auto formula tire sealant is a revolutionary gel that helps balance tires and turn them into self-sealing tires using fibers that are six times stronger than steel. Auto formula tire sealant helps tires maintain their pressure up to 500% better than untreated tires. Properly inflated tires that are balanced run cooler and last longer. Less flexing, bounce and fatigue equal longer tire life - up to 25% or more!

The dosages shown on the bottle label represent more than 80% of the most common tire sizes in use today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoQjH2DNxEk


In the entire 37k+ I put on the last set, I've not had a single issue with the tires, especially with flat or speed balancing concerns while serviced and they've taken me a great many places again with confidence. So with that and the new tires, I'll definitely be reordering more of this product again.

As for the tires I will be ordering a set of 285/70/17 in place of the 265/70/17. I think I'll pick up about 10-12mm both in width and height. I have contemplated going to a 35" tire but that involves some re-gearing in my opinion as well as jumping into a whole other suspension setup I have only half the parts for.

I will be taking a spare Dana35 setup apart, having the TTB beams cut & turned, addition of Dana44 (F250 series) knuckles and stub axles, along with adding 1 1/4″ Heimed Extended Radius Arms with Pivot Brackets with a 4" suspension lift and which I think should net me about 8"-10" +/- an inch more of travel. Truly I am opting for more a mid-travel kit for a not only a bit more articulation from the vehicle but mostly for a better overall ride and control and in the event I do decide to step up to 35's.. I'll have the room and suspension to handle them.

The current setup works well for what it is however, as with everything there is always room for improvement especially when new challenges must be taken and the adventures to be had will not ask but demand more.

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 5:57 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Image

You're probably looking at that and asking.. "WTH?"

It will certainly be more in depth as I put it all together but this is a 12" x 12" x 4" weather proof electrical enclosure that will become the base camp for two BlueSea 12 circuit fuse boxes, almost 18 relays, a couple circuit breakers inside and the fascia will allow the mounting of a couple 12 volt plugs, extra switches, and an amp draw meter, and an emergency battery disconnect...

This will reside in the bed of the truck. Between this panel, the crank battery, the house batteries, and all the rewiring of aux features. I am hoping this piece will stand out a lot.

I've spoken a lot about some big changes for the bed work;
- Custom drawer w/locking
- ARB fridge slide out
- ARB on board air compressor
- Wall cavity for recovery gear with Fold up work table/First Aid kit
- AC/DC converter w/solar panel converter input
- Spare tire carrier battery storage
- Articulated re-wiring

I've been collecting a slew of parts as the entire bed is almost like a whole other separate project in its own in ways and really trying to put the time together to do whats needed. Right now I am waiting on a host of even more electrical components which truly in some ways have nickle and dime'd my wallet as if the wallet itself was used in skeet shooting [PULL!], a pair of flush mounted scene lights, the reworking of an aluminum under carriage storage box, costly Anderson plugs, and lets not even get into the cost of good wire.. I am really avoiding cutting any corners at all other than perhaps finding the best prices on specific components I prefer to use and that where the line draws in the sand.

As many have noticed, I try at least every week to add to this build page and showcase what I've done, and why, and be as informative as possible in my explanations and I have appreciated all who follow my build. I am sure to have plenty of material to work with and to show off. I am even considering doing some video work to assist with that which is proving to be even more of a headache as its time consuming not only in recording material but editing is a nightmare for me right now.

So thanks for keeping subbed and interested..!

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:44 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Image

So yesterday I posted this 12" x 12" x 4" bad ass electrical enclosure..


Image

And although I'm not going to do a complete play by play of the entire process, I am still going to lay out the plans as they unfold and show you what I am up to.. as annoying as that may be to some lol

So as you can see by the pic above, anyone that may be familiar with Blue Sea Fuse boxes and their other products, this really is the best fuse box setups ever and I primarily use them in almost every install or project when applicable here at 12° North Industries. huge time saver and they look great when done up properly with some attention to detail.

You should also know that this build has a need for 19 circuits and I'll list those up later on. With two of the 12 circuit fuse boxes [Blue Sea pt #5026] there is 24 circuits available, 5 are still left open for future use, 1 is a single circuit for the on-board ARB air compressor but should I decide to pull the trigger and upgrade to the twin-compressor. I have allocated two circuits side by side to feed power to that one vehicle option as each circuit is good for 30 amps [total 100a serviceable for each fuse box].., The twin compressor pulls a massive 50 amps under load where the single HD unit only pulls 24.4a under load. Having the double fused circuit will field the necessity of more power without burdening the fuses or the panel itself.

NOTE: as a rule of thumb I would suggest that you wire your Air compressors and Winches off your main battery. They should be ran off of a regular [main] cranking style battery and NOT a deep cycle battery that you may be using for a second/house battery. You WILL give that deep cycle battery a very short life using a high current device like that. They are meant for slow current draws not fast depletion to drain.


Image
Image

Where this is going to be installed is a slight bit tight fit but it is some real estate I am willing to forfeit for function.

On the drivers side bed rail is where it will be secured. I will be building a bracket that will hold it in place as well as a stud in the bed rail. I'll point those features out. I do need it to sit off the edge about 1.25" to allow for the wiring and for the bracket that the enclosure will mount to securely it well.


Image

Panning back the camera you can now see that the cavity encroaches on the window area. Now there is almost 1.75" space between the glass and the rear of the enclosure and thats about where the bracket will hold it away and leave me the forward room for the waterproof connectors I am using to keep unwanted moisture from inside along with aluminum brackets, matte finish carbon fiber prepreg double twill plates, and all stainless hardware just because it "can be" in what would be considered an outdoor environment by being exposed to different elements rather than say, in a conventional house setting.


Image

This is the stud, minus the extra nut and the temporary attempt at a smaller box tie down; the main reason why I am doing this to this extent is because it really needed to be addressed and done right finally as I am trying to get a lot of small fires put out to showcase some work and more of what we do, or I do if you will. Hopefully this gives some people some better ideas too for their own.


Image

This mini rat nest annoys me considering out of all the detail I've shown in my build.. and this exists to power up a single 12volt power point outlet, the rear liftgate LED light kit from 12° North Industries and the two factory light boxes with LED upgrades in them from Flip-Pac in exchange for the inefficient halogen 921 bulbs that were there. Just as an addendum; the rear light still contains a 7w white [4800K] LED light for use of finding stuff in the bed of the truck. The forward light has a 5w red LED bulb as when the Flip-pac is in use, its reachable from the bed and saves the night vision a bit better when used.


Image
Image
Image
Image

Marking off all of my 0.875 holes to be drilled in the bottom. I need 5 but I have room for a 6th one should I need it for anything later. This is where the 4ga Streetwires power & ground cable will go. The other 3 (4?) will have similar waterproof connectors that hold nine 18ga wires in a 4ga O.D. sized insulation and with the use of 3 (4?) Molex plugs and the Anderson plug for the main power connection. If I should ever have to take the top off, I can without major time or effort into the disconnect. Four main connections will be all that is needed to remove and the top comes off fully all self contained.


Image
Image

Next is the inner workings of the electrical panel. Now this is where I skipped some pics and I do apologize but its pretty simple to see how I made the aluminum bracket so I could minimize some space taken up by the 16-18 relays that will go into this cavity without taking up a lot of space. As you can see in these two photos the first relay is in place.


Image

With simple harness I was thinking I may be able to work with the tight tolerances of the shorter leads but i think as this project starts to really unfold. I think you are going to see a bit more custom wiring done rather than the standard relay harnesses. For purposes of serviceability, there will be connectors soldered onto the wires and used to make the pin out connections vs soldering directly to the relays. if I am out on the trails or just in general needed to swap a relay out, desoldering one isn't going to make me too happy.


---------

Image

On another note, I visited Kelly the CB repairman local here to N. Las Vegas area and picked up a few parts and so I've added the citizens band radio antenna today as well this morning. I think it took me a fair amount of time to sand down the chrome bracket and shoot it satin black before mounting it as I am not a big fan of anything chrome really.

Not going to go into a lot of detail because this was just a bracket mounting but to show the work I am going to post the pics at least so you can see what was mostly involved and kinda how I did it and why.


Image
Image
Image


And then finally...

Image

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 8:31 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
I ordered a small sheet of 0.125 double twill Prepreg carbon fiber today from one of my suppliers and I should see that in a few days or early next week actually. Once I get it I will have to cut it down to proper dimensions for the backboard for the double fuse blocks which means tonight I'll be ordering not only a 2nd -12 circuit but the additional 6 circuit one from Blue Sea to replace the interior one with.


Image
Image

I will also have to run and grab a sheet of 0.0625 Aluminum sheet Wednesday to make the bracket for the electric panel that needs to be added to the drivers inside of the Flip-Pac. Although not a true to spec drawing, short two dimensions still away from accuracy but I must be able to mock it up first to get them. When you look at the second interior pic of the Flip-Pac, the bracket makes more sense.

I'll have to pull the light fixture, mark everything and add at least the two top holes of the NEW electrical panel. Match those and the E-Panel fully on the template and then transfer all that properly to the aluminum sheet cut it out, drill my pilot holes and the wire pass through hole on the light fixture side of things. Bolt the E-panel to it, mount it onto the front stud, mount the light fixture to it and the Flip-Pac, then reinstall the light itself, LED bulb, lens, and call it done.

From there it will mainly be all wiring and waterproof conduits & connections between the bed interior and the under-chassis battery-box storage and engine bay; this is where all the action will be and where everything will be critical for in the field performance needs. So I'll be making another set of extended length battery cables. One shorter pair and one longer pair that will go from the spare tire carrier house battery storage to the engine bay and another pair from the house battery location to the forward drivers side of the bed and then inside, secured into an Anderson connector for simplicity and serviceability.

Before I do that.., I do have a gasket that needs to be added to the front edge of the bed in order to seal it off better. The old gasket was over 20 years old and the new one came in a short while ago. So another small fire to put out there in completing as much dust removal. I really should do a good video and or write up of how I been achieving that and the results I gained making the cap as waterproof and dust free as possible. Especially since the entire bed work like I said before is a project in of its own.

Soon I guess...

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:53 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Just a random night time dash shot... or two. Thought I'd add something while i am waiting for parts to drop in. So far not too busy or confusing looking and not too bright at this point as far as reflective light. If anything, the tablet can get bad if you cranked up the brightness especially on some apps. The addition of the H.A.M. radio in replacement of the rearview mirror should really make for an interesting look and overall feel to the cab too. Soon...

Mirror mount, RAM mount, are in. just waiting on the magnetic back plate to come available Then I'll show that installed and wait on the delivery of the iCOM 5100.

Image
Image

Lit in the center stack [top to bottom]

Samsung Galaxy Tab3 7.0
AC/heater controls
Midland Mxt105 2 way GMRS radio

[to the right]
Uniden CMX560

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 8:23 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Today I figured with a little effort I can not only squeeze 2 really good quality OFC 4 gauge wires through 0.75" flexible conduit, I can run two 0.75" conduit lines in the frame under the truck safely and with minimal interference..!

Can anyone say "STOKED!" ? I can...

That saves me a few dents in the wallet from the pre-thought of having to actually use 1.00" fittings and conduit and actually having to run two at that. Just in conduit alone I'm saving more than $18 per run, almost $54 in fittings and connectors, and a heck of a lot of grief which is near priceless in my book.


Image

First mistake, I know right... Not properly identifying ALL needed aspects of the stake pocket in the bed. Which means great I had a pre-existing hole I thought I could use but with no real way to modify, at least what I wanted to do AND the space available was even more shallow than what I needed. So the okay news is I milled out the 0.875 lip that existed anyway and I can put a proper plug in place before the special NON-toxic sound deadener/heat rejection bed liner material is laid. In fact may even do the opposite side in similar fashion. One less option for dust to migrate it way within the topper itself.

So needing to clear the stake bed itself and an unknown obstacle above I had to add another hole to the left side on another wall which I will point out actually cures another issue I was battling; wire routing of two 4ga wires.


Image

A 0.750" elbow connector with a 90° to it will go in from the backside and between the NON-toxic bed liner material, the waterproof electrical gasket, and if I think it will need it, a bead of silicone around the fitting. Then the conduit will run below to the frame and route towards the spare tire well where it will connect into the house battery reserve waterproof storage locker. More on that later.


Image
Image

Here you can see how well the conduit connectors will work with the design and the cable routing to the E-Panel itself. I am really excited to get the bracket that will mount the E-panel to the truck as well as the carbon fiber backboard to the interior of the E-panel. Then the fun part of wiring comes into play, that's my specialty and I am hoping comes out the way I am envisioning it.. Hopefully as impressive !


So small steps as I can.. but again, adding worth to the build and the thread...

As always, thanks for looking.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 10:55 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
I know some folks on here may not be into the audio things too much.. but as part of the build and an old time hobby and obsession of mine I may as well include it in this build. Makes it easier for me to keep my story straight too as I go along; Most of whats been put to print here is the shortened version as I updated the overall build page and then everything I've been doing since I've been adding. So even though at this point I've found posts on here with well over 500 views with not a SINGLE reply or comment, I don't expect anyone to rush forward with questions. But should you find something interesting in my work.. don't hesitate or waste time raising a hand to ask a question, just blurt it out.

So back to the original post. With things either on order still to get me to the next level or that next step, things just in a small holding pattern monetarily. I decided that I was tired of moving some large pieces of Birch plywood around so I decided to rough cut some of the layers for the sub enclosure/electronics rack so I could at least take up less real estate in some ways and still show some progress to keep those interested.. well still interested.

A while back I yanked nearly everything audio wise out of the truck shy of the tablet and a bluetooth temporary speaker, sold what was worth selling and tossed everything else in favor of a slow revamp.

Now someone undoubtedly is going to tell me I should have used MDF because its the most dense wood.. blah, blah, blah..

Ya.. I know.. typically I would for someone looking to pass a kidney through their colon purposes or SPL nuts. But I am not making a ground pounder, the subwoofer is a single 8" Diamond Audio CM3 series with about 400watts from a ARC Audio amp. The birch plywood will also have a more warmer-live sound to it in a natural sense and in a musical sense or for Sound Q properties that's better than one note bass from a dense dead wood made mostly of sawdust soaked in formaldehyde and compressed with glue. May not mean much to some but it matters to me.

It's also why I chose to use a NON-toxic material for sound deadening and heat rejection for the inner door skins, cab roof, and floorboard and what will be used in the bed in replacement of the typical bed liner material because they actually put off toxic fumes when exposed to high temperatures or direct sunlight itself.
With the Flip-Pac being basically a living quarters when needed and living in 118° summer temps here in Vegas a couple months of the year and camping in those months isn't something I want to subject my body to nor my significant other if she camps along.

Trust me when I say 25 years ago seeing this specific post I'd been looking at myself as if I had two heads too on some subjects.

Anyway.. back on topic.


Image
Image

Here you can see the basic layers being applied as I rough cut them out into smaller size. The base layer itself also has a double 0.50" layers that make up a more finished leading edge below the base layer itself and then two studs and two 1.25" x 6" Aluminum standoffs that I will have to cut down to appropriate size and they will be lag bolted into the front corners for front support and stability.

Not only with this give support but it will also allow the down firing subwoofer to breath correctly without suffocating itself. Ideally the second layer is mostly a standard layer with a ring in it that allows the subwoofer to be flush mounted in it while the base layer itself will have a fully radiused (SP?) lip to allow good airflow and no "huffing" effects.

The subwoofer will be bolted into this ring via T-bolts to insure its seal and allow for any servicing the woofer may need. The inside of the box will also be designed to eliminate any standing waves inside as well. More on the actual design and techniques as we move forward.


Image

Now the layers will all be identically cut and shaped on the exterior with the leading edge at an 8° beveled edge with a router bit to mimic the natural seat position and to keep inline the character of a seat. As you can see here with my "PMG" [poor mans gauge] gauge here; approximately fifteen layers of 0.75" birch ply are going to be used to create this enclosure cavity and at least two of those layers with allow for additional cross bracing even though the enclosure is relatively small parameters.


Image
Image
Image

Simple mock up to give the idea a better understanding of whats going on here in the sense of the back plate, base plate, and the layers themselves again in the first two pics.

The third pic below that gives you an idea of the forward shape between the seats so the least amount of leg room was needed to be sacrificed. I don't mind not being to recline back much after spending so much track time in DTM style race seats and 5 point harnesses but I need room to shift and move about comfortably.

I decided to make my own custom router table and pretty much its coming in 4 pieces not including the ridiculously priced Porter Cable router I am still weighing out if I want the PC 690 or the PC 890. If anyone has any experience with either of those routers, I'd be interested in your opinions of either.

So as those pieces rotate in to my hands and I make the couple templates needed to get the best results.. as usual, I will do my best not to disappoint.

As always thanks for looking and for those of you new to my build page, welcome.

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 3:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Took a random road today, somewhat to find an alternative place to dial in my Glock but thought I'd do a quick share along the way.


Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I thought the layered rocks were kinda cool and these were the better pics I took. Just didn't have that creative flow this afternoon.. lol

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:48 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Had to make a quick trip down to SoCal today, two storage units today I had to clear them out..

Image

Was quite loaded up front and back.. handled the Cajon Pass well, better than I thought it would even with the manual trans..
Image


And yup, got the extra engine and front end components. going to tear those down further and send the beams over to Solo Motorsports to have turned to match a set of their longer radius arms finally..
Image

Now, I have to finish unloading the back So I'll see you all in the next post ;)

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 11:56 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Dont laugh, I told you all I was gonna do it soon and I meant it. So now this weekend since I got my aluminum metal sheet to mount the rear E-Panel up I'll certainly have enough to double up a small mount for this on the rear exterior of the Flip-Pac like I wanted to do for all to enjoy and the ease of use, especially while camping. :)
Image

And since I also got majority of my storage units cleared out, got one more truck load at one that still has a couple totes, my extra 4.0L engine heads and some other parts for it as well as the old spare, misc bullshit. I can at least spend this weekend tearing down these dana35 front beams and cleaning up and going through the transfer case and some other things in preparation for next week where I'm hoping that when I go get the last of my gear, I can drop them off at Solo and get that ball rolling..
Image


I def need to search through the "fabrication" section of FRF for some resources on the frame work which is next to get here at the house.

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 4:27 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Also had to pick up a new type of hold down system for the Fire extinguisher mount. Seems as though the last two spur roads shook up the aluminum fasteners so I opted for some one way screws/rubber washers and remount these instead with a drop of lock-tite just in case.
Image


Likely do it later tonight as the direct heat dissipates a little with a beer hopefully.. been a LONG week

.

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 9:14 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 14, 2017 2:49 am
Posts: 61
Location: Las Vegas
Small update; Got my CB antenna cable in a while back and finally took the time to add it in finally. For not just my application but i thought overall design aspects this ring type connection for not only a better weatherproof connection but one that wasnt pointing down at the end of the antenna making a difficult and aesthetically irritating look.

Image


Thanks goes to Kelly CB's for the antenna, and Triath for having a dual SWR meter handy for ease of calibrating the antenna and taking his time to come by and help..

Image

_________________
--

"You're right, there is no "I" in Team But there sure is in Independence, Individuality, and Integrity.."


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group